Karmenicky Senov

Ahoj! This next posting is of our adventure to the north, to the Sudetenland, which boarders the north, north west of the Czech Republic. This adventure took place a few weeks ago and actually began with the prior adventure of us buying our first and, hopefully, only Czech car. I do mention this as it was its own adventure and I suppose deserves some attention.

Behold our sweet ride! A French 95 Citroen. Odile would be proud. It's diesel...cause I like to let them know who's driving.

This picture shows just some of the process of us doing some business with Ludek, the local back street car dealer. He was very helpful and did go out of his way to help the procedure. But I will say, that some things got lost in the translation. Really? why, what does that mean Mark? oh, that's a story for another time. You might wonder why Heidi is here on the phone. Ludek doesn't speak much English, and we haven't really learned that much Czech. She is talking to Jindra, our translator.

Back to the wilds of the Sudetenland. Here I will give way to Heidi, our European History expert, which sometimes reminds me of my bike trips with Ryan. I'm just saying these students of history are always giving free commentary on the various places we visit... and I am better off for it. enough of this. I suppose riding with a philosopher leads to questions, "Yes, I am alive, but why?"

Mark: "Heidi, could you please explain what the Sudetenland is?"
Heidi: "Why yes - The Sudetenland is the far NW Bohemian region of what is now the Czech Republic. It used to be part of the German lands - under the Holy Roman Empire and the Austrian-Hungarian empire - and a territory that has passed hands several times in Europe's history - the most well known "exchange" was under Hitler when he moved into Czechoslovakia in 1938. It is an area that is/was rich in natural resources and hence the reason it was such a desirable territory to own. After WWII, the territory again became part of Czechoslovakia and all the Germans were forced to leave the area - permanently this time. "
Sherman: "That's right Mr. Peabody!"
Mr. Peabody: "Quiet you!"

OK, so here is the deal. A fellow Fulbrighter received a scholarship to study under the master glassblowers who have a rich tradition in this region. Chad Holliday and his wife Chloe, who is also an accomplished ceramics artist but who has her hands full with their two year old, invited all of the Czech Fulbrighters to an open-house - essentially a weekend of society beginning with a dinner at a glassblowing restaurant, or a resturant that also has glassblowing. ...either way it's better than a sports bar.

This is a nice group, the Fulbright staff, many who also attended this weekend, and some of the Fulbright students.

Elise enjoys the view of the furnaces.

Elise again mesmerized with the artisan hard at work. Btw, the guy pictured is not your regular chump, but the owner who came specifically for us. Chad, our host, who also works certain eves in this buisness, said that this man is one of the top glass artisans in the world. But I'm pretty sure I could take him.

Uh? how'd she get in there? Well, that's what paying attention gets you.
btw, it's harder than it looks, after several attempts we, the whole group yelled, "put your back bone into it".

The next day, in the morning, we visited the glass blowing school.

But there is far more going on here than just glass blowing. The approach of the school, besides working in the medium of glass, requires the students to work with many other mediums such as sketching, sculpture and metal working. The point to all this is that they are required to learn how to "see" and design in ... oh whatever.... blah blah.

See here, this is one of the student work room. You can tell because they're working in the background. But in the forefront is perhaps one of our favorite Fulbright people here. Liz. ...Liz something something... anyway, we will be sorry to not see her after this trip. She is teaching a semester at the University in Olomouc and is returning home for Christmas.

Ah yes, another work room for the students

Hmm, a forge. That's kinda cool

An Anvil! Now that's cool
Here is another picture, one without the flash on.

Nice! or as we say in Cz: Hesky!
I got to have one of these. I couldn't get them to sell it though. ...and it's not like you can slip that in your pocket. ...ah, not that I would do that. I'm just saying, that's all.

Now we move on to the Jilek glass factory

This place was built in 1905, but the glass blowing tradition here dates back centuries. There are tons of factories in this town, this one though is setting high standards in the quality of work that they produce. Above you basically see the furnace.

and here's that 1905 feeling, just like the olden days

but I suppose they saw in color. Still, looks cool.

Below are some of the teams at work. Teams of five. Petr, you'll meet him in a sec, speaks about these guys being a very tight knit unit. They all live in this village, drink and hang out together. There is more to this than it sounds. They are a community and have a sort of family relationship. While this is a glass factory, it is hardly unskilled labor. In fact, the entire place bespeaks of the artisan... and this laboring together is that sort of labor that returns something to the craftsman, rather than turning him into a shell. This is significant. Petr speaks of these workers as hearkening back to the guilds of the middle ages. I'm not saying they have a perfect life, but they do have an art and a community. It beats bucking rivets in the bus factory.

What?! Elise blowing glass again? but aren't I just as cute? Must be the pink boots. On the flip side, once you realize that the pipe that she is blowing on has basically been shared by the entire team, some five men... it doesn't seem so appealing...and yes - she got sick a week later. I suppose she's really a part of the team now! - ah - but no women allowed. Seriously!

Here is Petr, of whom I was speaking earlier. He is not the director, but he is the next guy in line. He has his PhD in glass. I think he is the first. The company is lucky to have him; he will take it places. He's showing us a mold from the middle ages - molds passed down between guilds and factory owners through the centuries. Unfortunately, most molds were "tunneled" when factories went bankrupt and then closed in the years following the Velvet Revolution in 1989. "Tunneling" means that new "entrepreneurial" thugs came into factories in the early 90's and sold everything of value to the highest bidder. Ah Capitalism....

Here is just a sample of some of the handmade glass items
But why am I doing all the work here? Check it out.
http://www.jilekglass.cz/

Christina with her new dog and that's Elan on the other end.
and the two in the middle, common street urchins we picked up.

Here is the group of fulbrighters. We are just leaving the restaurant to go to the pub. As you can see it's late afternoon in the mountains... and fog thick as Czech goulash.

Here is Chad. He is the Fulbrighter working with the local masters. Actually the guy sitting is the headmaster of the school.

Aye, the pub. I said we were going.
Look, this is the Czech Republic. You go to the pub, or sit around the house. No malls, no movie theaters, etc. ...at least in the small towns.

Elise working on the latest fashion design.

And the work being verified by the higher authority. I'm sure these drawings passed inspection

oh no, you know what happens to people at a pub. They get silly.

I rest my case. Mari and Brianna are.... certs me.

hmmm...either the camera has funky color settings or it has been drinking and we see as through beer goggles. That is Zach and Elan.

Those guys pictured above as green, now they have the camera. Two things. One, notice what has color for them. Two, look who's reaching with one hand and shooting with the other. Got to admit, looks pretty good. But I must confess, while the beer is generally outstanding, I'm getting sick of it ( can I say that?)

Well, seems as though the dog has had about enough.